Portuguese Way: From Vila Franca de Xira to Arneiro
Hello, La Scimmia’s Friend! In the previous article, I talked about the initial days of the Portuguese Way, taking you from Lisbon to Vila Franca de Xira, covering a total of 42 km.
Today, let’s walk together to Arneiro das Milhariças.
Backpack strapped on, get ready to join me on this virtual tour of my Santiago Way.
Third Stage: Vila Franca de Xira-Azambuja (22km)
From the hostel in Vila Franca, we rise early as 22 km await us to reach Azambuja.
The city appears as a tiny inhabited center in the Lisbon district. Its real points of interest are the Matriz Church and the statue dedicated to agriculture welcoming you at the city’s entrance after quite a pilgrimage.
Here, I chose to stay at Residencial Flor de Primavera/Também 4 Apartamentos. A mandatory choice since the pilgrim hostel remains closed during winter. But it’s not a wrong choice.
The strengths of this residence include its excellent location, just steps away from the church, Centro Comercial Atrium for affordable meals (highly recommended), and especially the train station, the starting point to resume the Way the following day. The room, albeit priced at 35 euros for a twin bed setup (a bit pricey for a pilgrim, but splitting the cost is an option), is warm and welcoming, as is the shower. Although there’s no kitchen access, cold and hot water are always available, and the Wi-Fi works great. Special mention to the owners who were incredibly kind and greeted me with a big smile, which, after a day’s walk, is exactly what you need.
The rest was a long night’s sleep. If you’re considering staying here during your journey, check their website, or you can book through our Booking banner, your choice.
Tips for pilgrimms
P.S.: (for pilgrims only): The next day, I found out a Korean girl slept at the church. So, if you don’t want to spend, that’s also an option. Inquire and let me know if you did.
Fourth Stage of Portuguese Way: Azambuja-Santarém (34km)
Leaving Azambuja, we head to Santarém for the next long 34 km.
Santarém is a city with ancient charm, once a Roman colony, with its historical and artistic interests embodied in the Cathedral and the Igreja da Graça, must-see sights.
Also highly recommended is Jardim das Portas do Sol, which unfortunately I didn’t get to visit, so I’ll await your news from the garden if you go.
A stone’s throw from the center stands Santarem Hostel, the hostel I feel confident recommending due to its excellent location near the major points of interest mentioned earlier, and a shopping center where you can eat and shop. The price-quality ratio is good, at 20 euros including sweet and savory breakfast in an 8-bed mixed dorm, with hot showers and functioning Wi-Fi. The owner’s tips were invaluable; he provided me with a city map and explained how to get back on the Portuguese Way the next day. Additionally, he recommended a reasonably priced restaurant (with Portuguese specialties) just a short walk from the hostel. Lastly, it was nice to have a chat with him by the fireplace, a great relaxing moment for a pilgrim.
As always, you can book through the website or directly from our Booking banner.
Fifth Stage of Portuguese way: Santarém-Arneiro das Milhariças (25km)
Leaving Santarém, we briskly head towards Arneiro das Milhariças.
The road is mostly through nature, peaceful albeit tiring to walk along this stretch.
Arneiro doesn’t offer much, but my stay at Casa do Adro was special and highly recommended. In fact, I had the opportunity (being winter) to rent an entire house for just 15 euros, breakfast included.
P.S.: (for pilgrims only): If you’re walking the Portuguese Way during the winter months and want to pass by Fatima and stop at Arneiro, this is the only solution. So, I suggest calling and speaking with the owner to plan accordingly.
But what enriched the experience was the time spent with the owner. I was fortunate to listen to his advice on the Portuguese Way and places to visit, all accompanied by entertaining anecdotes about his land and life. These small moments spent in his company I’ll always cherish.
I had access to the spacious kitchen to prepare dinner, bought at the supermarket just steps away from the house, also owned by the landlord.
A hot shower and a restful sleep allowed me to regain strength for the next day.
The morning after, I found a super generous breakfast waiting for me, allowing me to take some things for lunch.
In short, my experience at Casa do Adro was top-notch, absolutely recommended.
If you want to experience something magical at Casa do Adro, I’ll leave you the link to contact the place.