Three stages on the Portuguese Way of Santiago
Hello fellow pilgrim, ready for another journey among the recommended structures on the Way of Santiago?
If your answer is yes, fill your water bottle and join me.
Ninth Stage: recommended structure on the Way from Tomar to Alvaiázere (37km)
In our last article, we bid farewell in Tomar, and from here, we set off towards Alvaiázere to discover together what recommended structures on the Way of Santiago you can find.
I arrived in Alvaiázere exhausted at 7 in the evening after getting lost several times; therefore, I can’t tell you much about the town, but I can tell you about Albergaria Pinheiro’s where I stayed.
This establishment is definitely the right one for a pilgrim for various reasons:
The welcome received:
- Carlos, the owner, was extremely hospitable. He advised me on where to eat affordably (I had a fantastic meal at Casa do Benfica with spit-roasted chicken, salad, beer, and coffee for the modest sum of 6 euros; the owner even drove me back to Albergaria after dinner, what more could you ask for?); besides the advice, Carlos drove me to the restaurant, where we had dinner and a beer together, and to top it off, he provided me with a truly enviable stamp for my credential; I couldn’t ask for more;
- Value for money: 11.50 euros for a single room, warm and welcoming with included Wi-Fi;
- furthermore, you can check out whenever you want in the morning;
- Excellent location: to set off the next day and continue along the Way, and to visit the Church of the town, just a stone’s throw from the establishment.
If you too are a pilgrim and want to enjoy the hospitality of this comfortable Albergue and have an incredible stamp, this is the place for you.
I refer you to the facility’s profile for contacts to book (highly recommended in summer) or for more information.
Tenth Stage: recommended structures on the way from Alvaiázere to Rabaçal (40km)
Leaving Alvaiázere, we head briskly towards Rabaçal, famous for its Roman remains and its welcoming city museum.
The route that took me to Rabaçal was long and winding but not without its beauty.
Arriving in the small Portuguese town, I was greeted by heavy rain but also by excellent hospitality at Albergue O Bonito. The strengths of this Albergue are:
- The price: 10 euros per night in a mixed dormitory (I slept alone) with Wi-Fi, heating, equipped kitchen, spacious bathroom, and hot shower;
- The services: you can have the pilgrim’s dish (very generous) in the bar attached to the establishment with the addition of laundry service and breakfast for the next day, I spent a total of 10 euros, one of the cheapest places on the Way, without sacrificing quality;
- The owner’s availability: on departure the following day, I was greeted by a downpour, the owner opened the bar to shelter me from the rain and gave directions to avoid the most dangerous roads and how to shorten the route given the weather conditions;
it was truly enjoyable spending time at Albergue O Bonito;
Before leaving Rabaçal, I recommend you visit the small museum of Roman antiquities (free admission) and buy some excellent queijo de Rabaçal, you won’t regret it;
If you want to stay (highly recommended) at Albergue O Bonito, I leave you the link to their Facebook page for more information.
Eleventh Stage: Rabaçal-Coimbra (32km)
Departing from Rabaçal, rain poncho included; we head towards a super fascinating destination: Coimbra.
Coimbra, famous for its university (the first in Portugal), and its ancient and splendid library, is a must-visit.
The journey to get to Coimbra with its continuous ups and downs, I admit, was a bit challenging, but the view from the bridge over the Mondego River at sunset washes away all fatigue.
Coimbra gave me two days of relaxation, so I decided to stay at Serenata Hostel.
This is among the recommended structures on the Way of Santiago not specifically for pilgrims, but it still has many positive aspects including:
The location: although there are a few stairs to climb, falling asleep while looking out the window of your dormitory at Sé Velha is worth it; Value for money: 17 euros for two nights in a mixed dormitory for 10 people, in a really beautiful structure aesthetically and with all comforts (breakfast included); only drawback for men: you need to climb a flight of stairs to shower; and it’s not possible to wash clothes in the sink (and pilgrims know it’s very convenient having few clothes with them); The staff: always smiling and always kind, with some of them I had the chance to have a chat and learn more about the city;
If Serenata Hostel is the place for you, I refer you to their website; or to our Booking banner.
Before saying goodbye, I’ll give you two last pieces of information about the city to make your mouth water:
Eat at Restaurante Aeminium (the ancient name of Coimbra). There’s the pilgrim’s menu for 10 euros (showing the credential) with a dish, drink (including alcoholic ones), dessert, and coffee. There are also many other discounts in addition to the succulence of the dishes of course. Visit the Coimbra Library it’s literally a unique spectacle, which you will see once in a lifetime, I was deeply impressed.
If I’ve intrigued you a little, all you have to do is dedicate a day to the ancient Coimbra.
Until the next walk!